Bullie Bootiecamp: Day 1-3

After a lot of great advice from someone with experience with "behaviourially-challenging" dogs, I implemented some rules and things are already improving *for me*. Also, I'm reading Jan Fennell's book "The Dog Listener: Learn How to Communicate with your Dog for Willing Cooperation". I should not forget that as Guinness settles in, things will only get "worse" as his personality unfolds. Jan Fennell's book is excellent. I think everyone who is planning on adopting a dog should read this book BEFOREHAND. She has a comprehensive 30 day guide regarding what you should do when a new dog joins your family.

Fennell says that when a new dog joins the pack (family), they automatically assume that a new leadership election will be made. So in other words, Basil and Guinness are vying for top dog and even competing with me and my husband for the spot.

So far this is what I have been doing with the boys:

• No Go Zone - The second floor of our house. There is no need for them to up there. (Fennell)
• No Privledges - They are no longer allowed on the bed or sofa. If they jump on it, tell them firmly "OFF".
• No laying on you or on your feet. The Alpha (you) should have your perimeter of personal space. Them laying on you can be interpreted as they are superior to you. (Fennell)
• No eye contact unless you plan on interacting with them. Basically, ignore them most of time unless you are training or playing with them. (Fennell)
• No crowding at your feet. This is one way they are controlling you. When you move, they should move out of the way and not vice versa. If they crowd your legs and feet, kick back. Not hard. Just a "watch out" sorta kick back so they learn not to crowd you.
• Put up baby gates and section off part of the house like the hallway or kitchens. They do not need to follow you everywhere. These gates by Summer Infant are recommended because they are very high, decorative and wide. They also have a gate that opens and closes on it's own, so you don't have to lift it like the plastic baby gates. I'm trying to figure out how to strategically divide up our first floor space.
• Humans first (Cesar Millan) - You should always enter or exit the door first. This has been challenging with Guinness but easy with Basil. Basil always waited for me. Guinness however is pushing both Basil and me out of the way and it hurts! I've got some collateral scratches.
• Ignore when you first come home (Millan & Fennell) - Fennell puts it far more eloquently but basically take your time, check the mail, set your purse down, etc. before acknoledging the dogs. Especially if they are hyper. Basil hasn't been a problem but Guinness jumps onto my thighs when he's excited. I have regular bruises from this even though I block and tell him "Off". Once they are relaxed and you've done your business, you can acknowledge them. I knew this before we got Basil, but I wanted so badly to play with him and I felt so guilty that I worked out of the home that I would rush to him. Now I take 15 mins to get changed and start dinner and it's made my daily routine a lot easier. I'm not frazzled anymore.
• "QUIET" - Guinness whines if we don't hurry to let him out of his crate. Basil barks at the neighbor next door. Just a firm, sharp "Quiet!" does the trick. I was amazed how well this worked. I didn't hear a peep out of them after that. The neighbor was the true test and as always Basil began barking at him when he took out the trash and made banging noises. I commanded a sharp "Quiet" and if he kept on barking, I went over to him, took him by the leash and brought him back inside.
• Leashed at all times - Oh yeah, they have to leashed from now on. It's just for control and for a physical touch. If there is a squabble, we can step on the leash quickly and stop a pursuit. When Basil was barking, I was able to just pick up the leash instead of a series of unsuccessful "stop it! come! Stop that Basil!" This is all done without tugging or yanking. It's literally just a lead to get them to do what you need them to do. They are also more aware of the leash and aren't flying off the handle.
• No Licking - Basil compulsively licks us at night. Guinness began doing it too. It's just annoying! When they attempt to lick us, just a firm "Quit it!" should do the trick. It's worked and I have a dry snort free arm now!
• No playing Tug of War or Fake Biting ( Fennell) - Can be interpretted as they are superior to you when they win.

Fennell also talks about how you know when you're dog knows YOU ARE leader and how dogs will still test and manipulate you. It's all very insightful.

In addition, Basil needs more work with "Sit" and "Come". Guinness was trained by a professional trainer in his former home so his basic obedience is excellent. Basil's is very wishy washy and although he can "Sit" and "Come", he doesn't do it when we really need him to do it. He doesn't like sitting on any cold surface (he's such a priss). I realize now that it's really important because it can save him from a sticky situation. As for Guinness, I would like to work with him more on heel and leashing walking. He seems to know it but still tries to drag me like a kid pulling a balloon.

Results - The results are very rewarding. They are smart and they know what they are doing. Doing these few things, I am less frazzled and I'm in a better state of mind (Millan kekeke) to work with them.

General feelings - Frustration. Sadness. Guinn and Basil jumped onto the couch and when I told them "Off" they rolled over and wanted me to play "pin me" with them and rub their bellies. I wanted so badly to but had to tell them "Off". When they got off, I played with them as their reward. Ignoring them is sad. I know this is what we're supposed to do to establish leadership but it's no fun. We can't do the fun stuff unless we've done the work to go with it. We bought some high value treats to use to work with them. In general, we've stopped giving them a treat for every little thing (ie. going potty). Instead we give them a pet and some affection.